We were instructed to put on our bulletproof vests and helmets as the military jeep passed over an increasingly bumpy road.
We had already passed the furthest point in the Golan Heights accessible to Israeli civilians. “Welcome to Syria,” our driver says as we pass two poles with red barrels on them.
There are no signs or fences indicating a border. The area we are entering had been designated a buffer zone in 1974 as part of the ceasefire agreement that ended the Yom Kippur War. A half-century later, Bashar Assad’s government collapsed in the face of advancing Turkish-backed Islamists. Israel quickly seized control of the 235 sq. kilometer demilitarized zone to prevent Syrian rebels from advancing towards the Israeli border.
Since then, the Israeli military has built several outposts in this buffer zone. Our driver, Erez, brings us to one called “The Wind’s Fortress.” The choice of name quickly became obvious — the moment we step out of the jeep, a strong wind nearly knocks us down.
At The Wind’s Fortress, a 2,332-meter-high outpost, reservists led by battalion commander S. endure harsh conditions, with snow lingering and temperatures below 15°C. Stationed there for a month, mostly since October 7, the reservists, including S., a lawyer in civilian life, balance duty with family and work, maintaining an 80% turnout despite exhaustion.
Preparing for Passover, they’ll celebrate with matzah and grape juice, sensing history in their presence on Syrian soil.
Soldiers note friendly interactions with local Syrian children, unlike in Gaza.
New Passover dishes will serve the outpost year-round, hinting at a permanent stay to protect nearby Israeli villages in the Golan Heights.